YOGA HALL IN RISHIKESH

This is a picture of the Yoga hall that sits overlooking the Ganges and the hills beyond. It is made up of glass panels, held together by a very thin steel frame. The daily routine is this. Up at 7.30am , then a short stroll to the Yoga hall for a two hour class. Our teacher Govinda pays special attention to the German girls and has made me sit at the front of the class as one of the beginners! On the first 2 days, Kai, the German fella I traveled up with, did 8 hours of Yoga. My body was not happy and have now decided to attend the morning class only. Then it's breakfast, which consists of fruit porridge, cup of coffee, some eggs and the essential lemon,honey and ginger tea. I usually eat with Nele from Germany and Niana from Brazil, two very lovely gals. We laugh a lot and of course have extensive discussions on the meaning of life !Then it's back to my hotel room and the morning sun. I open the room up to my balcony and sit with the Ganges and hills in front and a beautiful garden below. I spend maybe 20 minutes meditating which is a challenge for my Monkey mind, though I am making headway and enjoying it very much. I then do some more stretching as the hamstrings have been battered over the years and need to do as they are told at Yoga class. A singing warm up is commonplace in the shower, much to the amusement of the Russians next door. Though I think my singing exercise are less appreciated as the noise can sometimes be bleak and may disturb some of the already fragile minds that lurk in this small town. Lunch is next on the menu at Ganges View for vegetable noodles and some herbal tea. Here I write for a couple of hours, taking my time to get my story strong. Now, it's back to the Yoga hall for an hours Pranayama, Yogic breathing exercises that are excellent for improving lung capacity. Finally, I hit the internet cafe and then some reading and dinner with friends. Not a bad day for about a tenner a day, including food and lodging.

Am planning on staying here a while longer as I am doing a little research for a project and enjoying the healthy lifestyle very much. Rishikesh is very different from Delhi. The air is clean and the sun can actually be seen! It is also quiet. The trip here was fun and was where I met Kai, my new traveling companion and also a couple of ladies heading to an organic farming meeting way up north. The train was enterprisingly civilized, with food included in the 7 pound ticket, served continuously for 6 hours. I am afraid to say I chickened out on the hot food and just stuck to the bread and jam. I wasn't keen on having any movements as the trains toilet was not attractive! Kai, is a gardener in Canada at a 5* resort. He has gone off to Phoo Chattii Ashram for a 7 day stint. I was meant to join him but my chest was not good and the Ashram deep in the hills, dark and damp. Hope to get to an Ashram at some point, though am very much enjoying my daily routine here.

I have met some lovely people here and have seen some oddities walking the streets. There are a lot of westerners that come for the special weed that is available and of course take too much. Some sorry sights, lost children looking for Enlightenment through mind altering substances. Like with any destination that promises so much, there is always a dark side. In two weeks time Brim Baba comes from SAmerica. he is a Guru and hundreds of Brazilians will be descending on Rishikesh to follow and learn from this master. I was at first a little skeptical of this happening but with time have learnt that this man they follow guides people to face their shadows and is seen as a very positive role model. I am going to check him out. Am not sure I believe the hype !!! I wonder whether he may stop people from asking those important life questions for themselves. I guess I will see.

The Beatles Ashram is a great place. Derelict and deserted. The place is overgrown, which paints an even more romantic picture of this controversial place. There are western influences in the architecture and some amazing meditation chambers dug deep into the hillside. It is probably the most peaceful place I have been to in India. It is now government owned and there is a small fee to enter. The Beatles stayed in these stone pods that I have posted on this site.

The food here is all vegetarian and as yet I have not longed for a big juicy burger at The Gourmet Burger Kitchen in London ! The food is good and the digestion system approves. I am enjoying the squat system of expulsions. Speedy and smooth departures, bliss! After a hot curry, essential!The only problem is that I can't get my feet flat on the floor so have to do a tip-toe number which if the balance is off can cause a few problems. Now I know why they do so much Yoga!!

I am beginning to see the draw of this country. It encourages me to let go of any control. It controls me. In a strange way it has directed me to a place of contemplation and a need for self awareness. Breathing is a big part of the Yoga life and is slowly becoming a part of mine. A real gift. If I am feeling at all anxious, I just breathe into it and the fear seems to gently lift. Easy to do here, wait till I get to London !! I have a funny feeling that when I do return home there will be a part of me yearning to get back here. This place is raw and full of contradictions, yet there seems to be a big beautiful truth that sits comfortably here. If you can get along in India, I think it is possible to tackle almost anywhere.

Have been invited to go back to Delhi to do some work in the schools, teaching English and Drama. Have decided against it, though would have been able to see some new friends that I made there. Facing the pollution and hectic pace is something I can do for a week or so but any longer would drive me insane. Instead, I am heading to Varanassi and then down south to Pondicherry where I will be doing my work for the street kids. Then a slow burn through the south and finally hitting Mumbai and Bollywood !!! Could be fun. Forgot to mention my creepy walk through the streets of Delhi after the wedding I attended. Think back to the film "American Werewolf In London' and you'll get the feel. So, I have been dropped off in what I thought was my neighborhood at about 1am. I am standing on this empty street all alone. All is deadly quiet and still, except for these shuffling figures lurking in the shadows. The heart rate rises. I am carrying my green shoulder bag, looking very London and a little well off !! Also my money belt with a wad of cash, cards and passport are on me. I begin to walk, sensing that I am being watched. This is not good. Then I see a man, shutting the only lit shop in the street. I approach him, he looks at me as though he's seen a ghost. 'I am looking for Karol Bagh Metro, can you point the way?' His reply. 'You see that building in front of you? It is full of undesirables, who prey on westerners, mugging them. You must stick to the streets that are lit by the lamps, do not stray from the lit streets.' Good grief! He shuts up shop and drives away on his motorbike before I can ask him for a ride. I am bricking myself and begin the fastest power walk you have ever seen, running would just not be British!! The shadows grow darker and the pace quickens, till eventually I hit familiar territory and then the hotel. I don't think I have been more scared and to calm the nerves I smoked a cigarette, thinking of home and the wonderful faces that are in my life.

Well, it's nearly time for lunch. The sun is shining and the Monkeys are in fast gear, snatching goodies from the unsuspecting passer byes on the bridge. There diet consists of Snickers, Bounty, Popcorn and Mementos!! Those poor kids never see the thieves coming !!! Nearly as bad as the sacred cows that roam this place. At night they just stand motionless in the streets, knowing that they are the boss. Seeing them is comforting, like a little bit of England before bedtime !

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